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MONTHLY MEETINGS: February Meeting
When: Feb. 27, 2007
Where: Proud Bird
11022 Aviation Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90045
(310) 670-3815
Dinner Hour Speaker: Jon Anderson, Ph.D
Dinner Hour Topic: Fermentation and Biotransformation: Promising Routes to Novel Actives for the Cosmetics Industry
Educational Hour Speaker: Caroline Schutz
Educational Hour Topic: A Novel Iron Complex for Collagen Regeneration Education Hour Speaker for February Meeting TOPIC: A Novel Iron Complex for Collagen Regeneration
Trace elements play a fundamental physiological role in the chemistry of living matter. Today, we are rediscovering the properties of these essential molecules, while applying our knowledge of the skin to identify the mechanisms through which certain metals act.
Unlike copper or zinc, iron still remains poorly known for its benefits on the skin. Iron intervenes in several enzymatic reactions, and plays an interesting role in collagen synthesis.
This session will present the use of iron in anti-ageing applications. In vitro and ex-vivo studies have revealed that iron input stimulates the activity of prolylhydroxylase enzyme, a key enzyme for collagen maturation in fibroblasts. It has been demonstrated that a water soluble iron complex can significantly increase synthesis of type I collagen on human skin explants, showing an activity similar to that of retinol.
BIO:  Caroline Schutz holds degrees in Biochemistry and Cosmetology Science programs from the University of Lyon, France. She is responsible for the Global Technical Marketing Support at Gattefossé. Caroline has developed an extended knowledge in the skin care field and mechanisms of actions of active ingredients in personal care products. Author and co-author of articles on anti-ageing treatments and sensory analysis, Caroline is an active member of the French Society of Cosmetic Chemists and frequently delivers symposiums in major SCC Chapters throughout the world. Dinner Hour Speaker for February Meeting TOPIC: Fermentation and Biotransformation: Promising Routes to Novel Actives for the Cosmetics Industry
Development of novel active ingredients requires innovative, reliable and affordable sourcing. With recent concerns over BSA and a general move away from animal derived compounds coupled with the shortcomings of plant derived extracts (such as seasonal supplies and year to year variability) alternative methods of production need to be accessed.
Fermentation and Biotransformation are promising routes for the discovery and large scale supply of ingredients for the cosmetics industry. Fermentation is a controlled process to grow microorganisms with the proper environment, nutrients and carbon source so as to provide a target compound. The microorganisms include a variety of bacteria, fungi, and microalgae; the target molecules range from macromolecules such as proteins and polysaccharides to small hydrocarbons and heterocyclic compounds. The target molecules can be endogenous constituents of the microorganisms such as hyaluronic acid, b-glucans, and phytosphingosines. The target molecules also can be constructed by altering the chemical “building blocks” or by altering various biosynthetic pathways to provide, for example, unique ceramides. Additionally, interesting peptides or proteins of animal origin can be produced through fermentation by inserting the genes responsible for coding into the vector genome, thus allowing cross family production of low yield or rare compounds. Biotransformation or biofermentation can be described as the structural modification of one compound (usually abundant, affordable, and inactive) into another compound with significant activity. This structural modification is achieved through specific enzymatic processes of the microorganism such as oxidation, reduction, esterification or ring formation during the fermentation process. Enzymatic synthesis is a variation of this process where the specific enzymes have been isolated from the microorganism and, for example, immobilized on a matrix for synthesis without fermentation. Several examples of the production of value-added compounds will be presented. Higher plants have also been a good source for active compounds however several shortcomings are apparent with cultivation seasonal variation of quality and concentration, etc. Plant tissue culture has provided a reliable avenue for controlled production of plant secondary metabolites used in the cosmetics industry such as shikonin, saikosaponins, and bryonolic acid. Biotechnology provides a variety of methods to produce high quality active ingredients in a reliable and controllable way. This technology, however, has to be balanced by cost. This presentation will discuss various aspects of the biotechnological production of compounds for the cosmetics industry. BIO: Dr Jon Anderson has dedicated his academic and industrial careers to the discovery and development of high purity bioactives from natural sources for human and animal health care. Jon spent 8 years at Purdue University School of Pharmacy, Department of Medicinal Chemistry and Pharmacognosy as a graduate student, Post-doctorate, and Research Scientist working on bioactive compounds from higher plants. In 1992 he joined Estee Lauder and as Senior Principal Scientist worked on developing novel high purity ingredients for skin treatment products. While his academic training focused on the search for anti-cancer compounds and agrochemicals, his industrial work has broadened that focus to include anti-inflammatories and anti-allergens, anti-oxidants, protease inhibitors, modulators of proliferation and differentiation, and other pathways pertinent to skin treatment.
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