ABSTRACT:
Electromagnetic radiation, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and visible light, is composed of particles of energy called photons. Molecules that absorb the energy in ultraviolet radiation and visible light are called chromophores, and they work by converting the energy in UVR and light into electronic excitation energy; i.e. electrons are promoted to higher energy orbitals. Once excited, a chromophore follows one or more of several possible pathways to deactivation. Some pathways are destructive to the chromophore’s ability to absorb another photon; others are not.

In our lab, we apply knowledge of photophysical deactivation pathways to the organic chromophores commonly used as UV filters in sunscreen products. Our objective is to find ways that encourage UV filters to follow deactivation pathways that are not destructive to them. This presentation covers the approach we take in this work, with emphasis on the most recent developments stemming from it. Most of these are not yet commercially available, though each may be patented or have patents pending. During the presentation, we will try to clear up some persistent sunscreen “mysteries.” We will also cover briefly key parts of the FDA’s proposed new rules for sunscreen drug products.

Mr. Bonda has been with Chicago-based HallStar (formerly C.P. Hall) for 12 years, and currently serves as Director of Research and Development -- Personal Care Ingredients. Before joining HallStar, he was president of Midwest Biotech, a developer of clinical diagnostic chemistries and, before that, president of American Diagnostics, Inc., a developer and marketer of medical diagnostic tests for consumer markets. Earlier in his career, Mr. Bonda spent many years in the advertising agency business, creating and executing advertising and marketing campaigns for marketers of consumer products and services.

He holds 24 U.S. patents for compounds, methods, and compositions related to sunscreens and sunscreen photostability, and has several patents pending. In 2001, Mr. Bonda received the American Chemical Society’s Regional Industrial Innovation Award for his invention of a new sunscreen photostabilizer, Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate. In 2003, he received the award for the best paper presented at the 2002 Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Meeting. In 2007, Mr. Bonda and his research team were finalists in the ICIS Innovation Awards competition for the invention of Polycrylene, a new polymeric sunscreen photostabilizer.

ABSTRACT:

Anti-aging has become one of the key cosmetic/personal care product claims in recent years. Facial anti-aging and body firming creams are one of the main thrusts behind the greater than 6% annual growth achieved by this category alone in the global skin care sector. In addition, natural botanical materials are becoming more popular with consumers in concurrence with the growing “green” movement. There are a host of ingredients/formulations making anti-age functional claims, and the very latest, including raw materials that impact the DNA/RNA of the skin, bringing about the desired efficacious effects with on-going product use. Yet, with the advent of the European REACH initiative and growing consumer skepticism on the true activity of these novel ingredients, it may be best to go “back to the future” when formulating new anti-aging cosmetic products.

The cosmetic jojoba oil explosion started in the western United States in 1977. Jojoba oil and its derivatives have been used extensively in the cosmetic industry, and most importantly, they are established, safe and efficacious raw materials known world wide. Recent in vitro and clinical investigations of jojoba oil and its derivatives have led to some breakthrough discoveries in the area of extended skin moisturization. This presentation will give an in depth view of how each of these jojoba oil derivatives can be used to create novel anti-aging cosmeceutical formulations. In some cases, groups of these materials have been put together to achieve a synergistic effect with multiple in vitro and clinical functional attributes. A case in point would be hydrolyzed jojoba esters combined with glycerin to provide extended skin moisturization without the high tack skin feel of glycerin alone. Results of recent clinical trials demonstrating these functional attributes will be presented.

John Hill is currently the Applications Services Manager at Floratech, a raw material suppler of botanical derived ingredients for the cosmetic and personal care industries. For the first 18 years of his career in chemistry, Mr. Hill worked in the fields of high energy materials, solid rocket fuels and propellants. In 1999, John joined Floratech as a Cosmetic Chemist. His previous experience in batching and formulating proved to be valuable as he transitioned into formulating all types of personal care products for Floratech. Mr. Hill developed quickly in the field of cosmetic chemistry and was awarded the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2001 Young Scientist Award in the California Chapter of the SCC. Research projects in which Mr. Hill was involved led to several patents covering topics such as cosmetic delivery systems, ultra stable botanical materials, improved spreading properties, and novel alkoxylated materials. In the first quarter of 2006, Mr. Hill was promoted to Applications Services Manager in charge of a team of cosmetic chemists working on finding new functions and formulas using stable, botanical raw materials. Mr. Hill has authored or co-authored several articles published in various cosmetic trade journals dealing with the physical and mechanical properties of botanical raw materials and their derivatives. Mr. Hill has also developed several novel test methods for determining the slip and spread properties of liquid cosmetic raw materials as well as the moisture occlusive properties of these materials. Mr. Hill received his Bachelor of Science degree in Chemistry (minor in Chemical Engineering) at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University (Virginia Tech) in 1981. Mr. Hill can be reached at john.hill@floratech.com