ABSTRACT:
Due to the growing trend of natural cosmetics, lecithin is becoming a very significant alternative to synthetic emulsifiers. Formulators are now able to claim that their formulation are free of PEG’s, contains natural emulsifier or even “emulsifier-free”. It is a fact that phospholipids, the active content of lecithin, have useful properties and the food industry has been using phopholipids for decades in chocolate manufacture, instant milk powders and baking among many other applications. Phospholipids are the major constituents of our cell membranes and can be found in all living organisms. Commercially speaking they are mostly extracted from plants like soy and sunflower. Phospholipids are the emulsifiers that nature has created for its needs!

These biomimetic molecules offer more than emulsifying properties: they exhibit an excellent skin-feel (fresh and soft) and skin-treating benefits. Most advanced studies have shown strong repairing effect by stimulation of collagens and laminin synthesis. Phospholipids –and the liposomes they form – offer long lasting hydrating effect. Well chosen lyso-lecithin reduces irritation due to chemicals and inflammatory effect of UV rays. One important aspect is also their capability to carry and deliver active molecules into the skin by using their affinity with biological membranes. Lecthin applications and benefits for cosmetic use continue to evolve to offer new product alternatives for cosmetic chemists.

Jean-Pierre Arnaud has been working for 18 years in Lucas Meyer group and is now heading the cosmetic division which was created on April 1st, 1999. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is the cosmetic entity of the group, located close to Paris, France with its own laboratory and production.

Mr. Arnaud got his Ph.D at Quebec City University for Food Science and Technology. Previously he graduated as Chemical Engineer in Toulouse, France.

ABSTRACT:

Recent developments in cosmetic and personal care have imitated ideas from the food, nutritional and pharmaceutical industries for crossover applications. Until recently, skin care and skin health was mainly restricted to cosmetic applications as topical creams rather than through internal nutrition. However, with increasing consumer awareness and education, the perception is now common that the skin is a reflection of internal and external health and well-being. The recent trends in probiotics, is a good example to observe the potential cross-over success or overlap that can occur between the multiple industries.
Arch Personal Care Ingredients (Arch PCI) has developed ‘Fusion Technologies’ that combines technological insights from the nutritional, cosmetic and pharmaceutical sciences into developing new skin care actives. The development of a unique biotechnological ingredient platform intended for topical application will be reviewed which has been obtained through the fermentation of resveratrol with the yeast microorganism, Pichia pastoris.
Confirmation of the ability of Pichia pastoris to metabolize resveratrol has been demonstrated through Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectroscopy (LC-MS) analysis. The topical benefits of the fermentation of resveratrol were investigated using MatTek® full thickness tissue models in vitro to examine the ability for the ferment to reduce expression of the anti inflammatory enzyme Cycolooxygenase 1 [COX1] as well as its ability to promote the synthesis of Type IV collagen. In vivo human studies examined the ability of the ferment to reduce the visible signs of aging.

Smitha Rao, presently Sr. Research Microbiologist at Arch Personal Care Products, L.P., works to develop new technologies and products for both skin and hair care applications. She is presently investigation a variety of patent pending bio-fermentation technologies to identify novel actives for anti-ageing. Her research development focuses on the identification of unique small-molecules from plants exhibiting key functionalities; and the enhancement of these molecules through bio-conversion by fermentation. Her research has identified innovative bio-markers and unique pathways to combat ageing and have yielded the next generation of actives for skin care. She has a M.S. in Microbiology from Michigan Technological University and B.S. from Bangalore University, India. She has previously worked for the pharmaceutical industry, in bio-fermentation process optimization for drug development.