Innovative Active Ingredient Suppliers

Presenter: Narjis A. Askar, Ph.D.

Toipc: Beyond the Surface: Unlocking Deep-Tissue Biology to Transform Eye Area Aging

The eye area remains one of the most emotionally and visually impactful regions of the face - where consumers consistently seek improvements in puffiness, sagging, and overall appearance. While these needs have remained unchanged, scientific advancements are reshaping how we understand and address them.

Traditionally, skincare approaches have focused on the superficial layers of the skin. However, emerging research highlights the critical role of deeper tissue structures and their surrounding microenvironment in driving visible signs of aging in the periorbital region. The eyelid is uniquely vulnerable - being less than 1 mm thick and undergoing more than 3,000 movements per day - making it highly susceptible not only to surface-level damage, but also to cumulative changes originating from deeper anatomical layers.

This deeper microenvironment is governed by the interplay of vascular and lymphatic networks, which regulate oxygen and nutrient delivery, as well as the removal of excess fluids and metabolic waste. At the same time, structural components such as ligaments and muscles - including the levator muscle - provide essential support and dynamic function. With age, disruptions in circulation and tissue homeostasis can compromise these systems, contributing to hallmark concerns such as puffiness, loss of firmness, and eyelid drooping.

Our research explores how age-related changes in microcirculation and deep tissue integrity influence the visible aging of the eye area. By expanding the focus beyond the epidermis to include vascular, lymphatic, and structural components, we demonstrate how targeting these deeper pathways can unlock new opportunities for improving treatment efficacy.

This work serves as a broader example of how the future of skincare actives is evolving - not by redefining consumer needs, but by advancing the biological understanding behind them. A more holistic, multi-layered approach that integrates deep tissue biology represents a promising frontier for next-generation actives designed to deliver more meaningful and visible results in the eye area.

Bio:

Narjis A. Askar, Ph.D., is a senior polymer scientist and technical business leader with more than 25 years of experience in polymer chemistry, materials science, and cosmetic formulation. She holds a Ph.D. in Biochemistry and a Master’s in Physical and Inorganic Chemistry.
Dr. Askar has held roles in formulation, R&D management, and technical marketing, with a focus on translating scientific insights into consumer-relevant benefits and identifying growth-driving opportunities. Her expertise includes hair straightening and color technologies, multicultural hair care, conditioning systems, and product testing and manufacturing. She is recognized for diagnosing complex formulation challenges, guiding polymer selection, and enabling new technology adoption through rigorous analysis and clear communication.
A holder of multiple patents and an active scientific presenter, she is known for her leadership in multidisciplinary teams and her ability to connect technical innovation with business strategy. Outside of work, Narjis enjoys hiking, traveling, exploring new cultures, and reading.

Presenter: Mr. Philip Ludwig

Topic: Restoring Facial Volume Across the Aging Spectrum: Science-Driven Solutions for Natural and GLP-1–Associated Volume Loss

Facial volume loss is becoming a major focus in skincare, driven by both intrinsic aging and the rapid rise of GLP-1 weight-loss medications. While natural aging gradually reduces adipose tissue and structural support, significant weight loss associated with GLP-1 therapies can accelerate hollowing, skin laxity, and contour changes commonly referred to as “Ozempic face.” In both cases, diminished subcutaneous fullness contributes to a more fatigued and aged appearance, increasing demand for non-invasive solutions that restore facial plumpness and resilience.

This presentation explores a biologically targeted approach designed to support visible volume restoration through modulation of adipocyte activity. Mechanistic studies demonstrate stimulation of key adipocyte functions, including pre-adipocyte differentiation, adipocyte proliferation, lipid storage, and increased adipocyte volume. Gene expression analysis further highlights activation of pathways linked to fat cell maturation and tissue structure organization.

Pre-clinical evaluations showed significant enhancement of adipocyte differentiation and lipid accumulation, while clinical assessments demonstrated visible improvements in skin plumpness and contour appearance. By addressing the biological mechanisms underlying facial volume depletion, this approach offers a science-driven pathway for future-focused beauty innovation targeting both age-related and GLP-1–associated volume loss.

Bio:

Philip Ludwig holds an M.S. in Cell and Molecular Biology from Michigan State University and joined Croda in 2026, where he collaborates across R&D and with customers to develop innovative skin and hair care actives.

During his time in R&D, his final three product launches collectively earned five international awards at PCHi and In-Cosmetics, recognizing them as either Best New Ingredient or Most Innovative. Philip is the author of multiple patents and more than a dozen research publications in the field of personal care ingredients. He has presented at numerous industry conferences and seminars and was honored with the Hans Schaeffer Award in both 2020 and 2021 for delivering the most innovative cosmetic science paper.

Presenter: Dr. Blanca Martinez

Topic: How AI-Optimized Peptides Tackle Multifactor Skin Concerns

Artificial intelligence (AI) is transforming the way cosmetic active ingredients are designed, shifting innovation from empirical discovery toward predictive and data-driven development. In peptide engineering, traditional approaches based on iterative screening and combinatorial chemistry are increasingly complemented by in silico methodologies capable of exploring vast molecular libraries with high efficiency.

AI-driven peptide design relies on computational tools such as molecular docking and virtual screening to identify optimal interactions between peptide candidates and specific biological targets. These models evaluate structural complementarity, physicochemical properties, and binding energy to predict the most promising sequences, significantly accelerating the identification of high-performance leads.

By analyzing thousands of potential combinations, AI enables the rational design of peptides with enhanced selectivity, stability, and efficacy. This approach also facilitates the development of multifunctional peptides capable of simultaneously modulating multiple biological pathways, addressing complex skin concerns such as inflammation, sebum regulation, or extracellular matrix degradation. 

Beyond molecular design, AI contributes to the broader cosmetic innovation pipeline, from mechanism validation through gene expression analysis to the optimization of clinical evaluation using digital and automated tools. 

Overall, AI-driven technologies redefine the paradigm of cosmetic R&D, enabling faster, more precise, and more targeted ingredient development. By integrating computational intelligence with biological validation, AI-designed peptides represent a new generation of actives tailored to deliver measurable efficacy in increasingly complex and personalized skincare solutions.

Bio:

Dr. Blanca Martinez is Senior Business Development Manager at Lipotrue, where she bridges cutting-edge cosmetic science with strategic market expansion. With over 20 years in the beauty and personal care industry, Blanca brings a unique blend of scientific expertise and commercial insight. Prior to joining Lipotrue, she led ingredient innovation at ISDIN, guiding the development of over 200 formulations, and directed R&D at Provital, where she doubled the revenue contribution from key actives. Holding a PhD in Organic Chemistry, Blanca loves to turn complex science into compelling product stories. Whether she's building partnerships or crafting the next must-have ingredient, she’s driven by curiosity, collaboration, and a passion for innovation.  

Presenter: Patricia Moreira

Topic: Decoded — The Science of Peptides in Next-Generation Skincare

Peptides have emerged as one of the most scientifically defensible classes of cosmetic actives, situated within a global cosmetic-ingredients market projected to grow from approximately USD 37.4 billion in 2025 to USD 65.16 billion by 2035, with biotechnology-derived and mechanism-substantiated actives among the fastest-expanding subsegments. Yet conventional peptide discovery (sequence screening followed by empirical in vitro validation) remains slow, capital-intensive, and biased toward incremental analogs of canonical sequences. This lecture decodes how to reframe peptide design through a fully integrated in silico pipeline that compresses the path from biological hypothesis to formulation-ready active.

The rationally designed, computationally pre-validated workflow delivers three structural outcomes: (i) shorter, more capital-efficient time-to-market; (ii) peptides with mechanistically defined modes of action, directly translatable into substantiated claims; and (iii) novel, intellectual-property-defensible sequences rather than incremental analogs. The session targets cosmetic scientists, formulators, and R&D leads engaged with the next decade of mechanism-driven, biotechnology-enabled skincare innovation.

Bio:

Patricia Moreira holds a PhD in Cellular and Structural Biology from Universidade Estadual de Campinas (Brazil), with doctoral research at the Medical University of South Carolina (USA), and over twenty years in cosmetic-ingredient science. At Natura she led the Skin and Hair Research Group and the Green Ingredients program, building research partnerships with institutions including MIT and MGH and shaping the company's bioprospection pipeline. She is now Global Marketing Director and National Commercial Director for Personal Care and Home Care at Chemyunion. She is a co-author on peer-reviewed studies in cosmetic science and a co-inventor on seven international patents covering plant-derived bioactive ingredients.