September 2017 Meeting
Zoe Draelos, MD
TOPIC: New Concepts in Skin Care including Photoprotection, Cosmeceuticals, Anti Aging Procedures and Devices and More...
This presentation will review new concepts in skin care to include: photoprotection, cosmeceuticals, facial and body anti-aging procedures, and devices. Photoprotection has traditionally focused on UV radiation and sunscreens, however, an equally damaging effect on the skin is produced by infrared A (IRA). IRA (760-1440nm) is a longer wavelength than visible light that induces pigmentation via heat, but does not damage DNA. Yet, IRA damages the dermal extracellular matrix by increasing matrix metalloproteinase-1 degrading collagen type 1, collagen type 3, and elastic fibers. The most damaging effects of IRA occur in the mitochondria where ROS are produced damaging the mitochondrial respiratory chain and disrupting electron flow. IRA is a co-carcinogen altering the carcinogenic potential of UVB. N-acetylcysteine, ascorbic acid, and some flavonoids provide oxidative protection against IRA-induced upregulation of MMP-1 in vitro. Effective anti-aging products thus must incorporate IRA protection.
Another area of cosmeceutical development is growth factors, which are multifunctional peptides active in the picogram range that mobilize, stimulate, decrease, or otherwise alter the production of cells in vivo. The most relevant growth factor is epidermal growth factor which stimulates the proliferation of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells. Growth factors are obtained from human fibroblasts grown in culture media.
The fibroblasts remove nutrients from media and release by-products, containing 110 different materials including some growth factors, which are then incorporated into cosmeceuticals.
Finally, many new procedures have entered the arena of facial and body anti-aging. These include fat sculpting, from deoxycholate injections, and injections of hyaluronic acid, such as Voluma. In addition, new toxin derivatives have been developed that are longer lasting, possibly up to 6 months. This extended timeline changes the anti-aging landscape. Other device related developments include ultrasound induced tissue heating, skin needling, and smart mirrors. All of these new concepts change the skin care landscape.
In this presentation Doug Schoon uses 2D and high magnification 3D images to delve into the natural nail to explain its anatomy, growth and structure, as well as to discuss conditions that can affect nails. He’ll also discuss common myths and misinformation that exist about nails, and explain what nails really need to be healthy and how to keep them good condition.
Doug Schoon is an internationally-recognized scientist, author and educator with over 30 years’ experience in the cosmetic, beauty and personal care industry. He is a leading authority known for both his scientific and regulatory work and has been awarded 17 patents for innovative cosmetic products. He is president of his own company, Schoon Scientific, as well as for 21 years serving as the Co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council on Safety (NMC) under the Professional Beauty Association and for 20 years CND’s Vice President of Science and Technology.
Schoon has authored several books, video and audio training programs, as well as hundreds of articles about salon products, safety, and best practices for salon professionals. He’s produced and appeared in 77 Episodes of his internet series “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon” answering questions from nail professionals around the world which also published in print and as e-books.
Schoon serves as an expert witness in legal cases involving cosmetic regulations, formulations and safety. Additionally, dermatologists frequently call upon him to assist them writing books and scientific papers. Schoon is a chief contributor to Milady's Standard Nail Technology and Standard Cosmetology, as well as many medical reference books such as Baran and Maibach's Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology and Cosmetic Dermatology: A Comprehensive Medical and Surgical Text and Cosmetic Dermatology, edited by Zoe Draelos. He currently resides in Dana Point, California.
|Event Date||September 26, 2017 5:00 pm|
|Event End Date||September 26, 2017 8:30 pm|