January 2019 Meeting
TOPIC: Submicron Particles from Lipids as Enhanced Delivery Vehicles for Retinol
Dermal active substances, in particular anti-aging ingredients, find frequent use in cosmetics for their beneficial effects on the skin. But they can only have these effects if they are bioavailable. That means that the substance must efficiently penetrate the skin in a meaningful and effective concentration. Furthermore, the substance must be protected from degradation due to external influences such as light or oxygen, both as a raw material and in formulation. Retinol is a highly effective antioxidant and has long been known as an anti-aging ingredient. However, its chemical instability makes it a challenge for formulators. Furthermore, in high concentrations retinol causes skin irritation and redness. Retinol can be stabilized to a substantial degree by embedding it in a semi-crystalline, unordered matrix of selected solid and liquid lipids in the form of submicron particles in an aqueous suspension. This also gives efficient, controlled penetration of retinol from the particles into the skin over a prolonged period, minimizing skin irritation. At the same time, with their effective adhesion to the skin, the lipid particles help restore the damaged skin barrier. This adhesive property also has the benefit of extending the release of retinol. The particles are in solid state at skin temperature and they are stabilized in suspension. This talk will update a presentation made at the 4th Annual Cosmetic Innovation Congress in 2016 which won the Award for best paper and will discuss both this and other delivery enhancement technologies for actives.
Florence (Jonnard) Olechowski is the Cosmetics Division Manager of Berg + Schmidt Gmbh in Hamburg, Germany. Prior to this position, she served as the R&D Manager for the Cosmetics Division. Prior to Berg + Schmidt, Mrs. Olechowski served in various capacities in the laboratories of Rhodia Solvay and Beiersdorf. She has spoken at several conferences about different delivery systems for cosmetic ingredients, including "New Generation of Advancecd Dermal Delivery Systems" at Cosminnov' in May 2016, "BergaCare SmartLipids - Commercial Lipid Submicron Particle Concentrates for Cosmetics" at Society of Dermopharmacy's 20th Annual Meeting, and "A New High-purity Fractionated Sunflower Lecithin for Liposomes and Skin Repair" at In-Cosmetics 2013. Mrs. Olechowski studied at CPE, receiving a degree in Engineering, and performed an exchange during that time at Stockholm University, studying polymeric materials, microspheres for drug delivery, and cross-cultural leadership. She spends her free time working on philanthropic endeavors and enjoys traveling, sewing, and running.
TOPIC: Introduction to Hair Color Chemistry
This brief overview of hair color chemistry is ideal for anyone interested in learning about hair color formulation and technology. After a brief overview of hair anatomy and structure, Bernadette will review the differences between permanent, demi-permanent and semi-permanent hair color, components and ingredients, the color wheel and color from using cosmetologist language, the bleaching process, and manufacturing insights.
Bernadette Duffer has been in the cosmetic science industry for more than 30 years, 25 of which have been in developing retail and professional hair color products for major US hair color companies. Bernadette started her career at Redken before the L'Oreal aquisition, then served as a senior scientist at Revlon for 18 years, specializing in creating hair color and bleach products for domestic and international markets. Most recently, she is the hair color lead application scientist at Croda Inc. In this role, Bernadette presents hair color technology with hands-on training to many local and global hair color customers.
|Event Date||January 22, 2019 5:00 pm|
|Event End Date||January 22, 2019 8:30 pm|